In my last Youtube video, I mentioned that we were easing back into the city – our city of Stockholm. Now I’m sharing some tips for all of you wyld hearted folks out there who wonder how we stay connected to nature in the midst of a capital city!
We are incredibly lucky here to have a ton of opportunities to connect with the natural world, even right in the city center. When people think of wildness, they tend to jump to remote places and forget that there is plenty of wildness right here at home.
The city of Stockholm is essentially 14 islands floating together where Lake Mälaren meets the Baltic Sea. There is a lot of water and wind, a lot of bridges and boat passages between the islands, and a considerable effort to keep parts of each island natural – and sometimes even wild. At the very least, to create large stretches of nature where both people and other creatures can gather and be in all seasons.
You can be wandering through virtually any part of Stockholm and suddenly find yourself in a dense area of forest or wild overgrown meadow, or sitting on a rugged coast, which is definitely what I’ve always loved about this city, from the first day I came here 12 years ago. In the summer we jump in the water that surrounds us, and in the winter, when it all freezes over, we walk across the waters. Literally! Many years ago, when winters were much harsher, I had several colleagues who commuted to work on their skis and ice skates, using the frozen waterways like streets.
For this city guide, I will focus on some tips for enjoying nature, rather than a long list of restaurants and shops. I do include a few cafes or museums on this list too, but they are almost always connected to another experience.
Allmansrätt
I should probably clarify that Sweden operates according to Allmansrätt, or every person’s right to nature. By giving people the freedom to roam around in the natural world, people can feel apart of this land and water. Like they can really belong there. Yet with freedom comes responsibility. What Sweden has found is that people are much more likely to take responsibility for something when they are given rights to it. Because then it becomes their own too.
So we are free to roam, ski, walk, cycle, camp on and forage from (but NOT including hunting or fishing, which require licenses and come with further restrictions) any land, but never the right to use nature for economic purposes, such as hunting or logging, nor do we have the right to break into someone’s plot of land or invade someone’s home territory. And certainly we should never disturb or destroy anything, either in the natural world or otherwise.
Disclaimer: Like any capital city, Stockholm changes quickly, so keep in mind that this guide is relevant in 2021. Thankfully the natural world changes a lot less than commercial shops – if nature is allowed to simply be, that is. Also this list isn’t at all inclusive, just some places that immediately jump to my mind based on where I have lived (mostly on the southwest side of Stockholm).
Fellow Stockholmers – please leave your tips in the comments section below so people can discover the gems of your areas too!
INNER CITY
Moderna Museet – probably our favorite museum, and it’s situated on the tiny island of Skeppsholmen, which you can easily walk around for beautiful views of the city. You’ll see plenty of ferry boats passing in the water, and if you want to experience what it’s like to travel by water between the smaller inner islands, there is a ferry station on Skeppsholmen! It is part of the Stockholm City transportation system, so you just need a normal SL ticket – the same tickets you use on subways, buses, trams, etc. throughout Stockholm. Otherwise, enjoy Moderna – it’s a gem.
Rosendals Trädgård – a little oasis in the midst of the city. Rosendals offers wonderful homemade food and breads baked in a traditional wood-fired oven. Gorgeous gardens that make you feel just lucky to be alive. A curated garden shop where everything is for sale. And a food shop in case you want to take some edibles home. The only downside is that it is, of course, very popular. On weekends, there are incredibly long lines, so if at all possible, stop by on a weekday. Just be sure to check their hours first, as they change throughout the seasons.
Djurgården – even if Rosendals Trädgård (above) is closed, or just crowded, it’s worth going out to the island of Djurgården for a long walk. There are plenty of museums and historical sites to see on this island too. To name just a few of the museums on Djurgården: the ABBA museum, Spiritmuseum (as in Absolut vodka kinda spirits), Junibacken (home of Astrid Lindgren’s characters like Pippi Långstrump), Vasamuseet (a 17th century ship), Skansen (a huge open-air museum), and Nordiska Museet (for all things traditionally Swedish).
But if the weather is nice, please don’t spend the entire day in museums, as wonderful as they are, because the island of Djurgården is gorgeous. You can meander through the island, finding open meadows and patches of forest. Or walk all the way around the island, following the water, including the little channel that cuts through it back to the city. No matter where you are on Djurgården, you’re sure to see horses – or at least signs of horses on the ground, so watch your step!
Årstaviken – Årstaviken is a bay in between the island of Södermalm and the neighborhoods of Årsta and Liljeholmen. A walk around the bay is 7-8 kilometers total and offers you many scenes along the way. While the Södermalm side is very well-traveled, the highlight for me is the dirt trails and little summerhouses climbing the hillside. On the Årsta side, you will be treated to rather dense forest and hilly terrain. You can even keep it going in both directions if you want to be outside more! A bit of landscape in a cityscape.
Norr och Söder Mälarstrand – When in doubt, head towards the water. The edges of Stockholm’s inner islands are oftentimes a haven. Walking along Lake Mälaren is a real treat, though it can be very crowded on nice sunny days in all seasons! You’ll get both nature and culture, serenity and swarms. On the northern (norr) side, you will walk along Kungsholmen from Rålambshovsparken to the stunning Stadshus (city hall). On the southern (söder) side, you will walk along the top edge of Södermalm, from Hornstull to Slussen, the highlight for me being Monteliusvägen, so don’t skip that part!
SURROUNDING AREAS
Nacka Naturreservat – I think my first real nature reserve experience in Sweden was here at Nacka. During my son’s first year of life, we lived in Hammarby Sjöstad, a short walk from Nacka Naturreservat. It’s also where the idea for Wyld evolved into a very clear vision, though it had been stirring for years. There’s no telling how many hours I spent picking wild berries here. It was a mind-boggling experience for me, that it was even possible – and safe – to just walk outside and pick fresh food. I remember strapping my firstborn into a baby carrier and walking through these forests for hours during the day, dreaming of a time when he would be big enough to pick blueberries himself. (He’s now a HUGE wild berry picker and lover!)
There are plenty of paths through this nature reserve for hiking or cycling, yet also plenty of totally wild and overgrown areas to explore too. There’s also a bathing spot, or a very good place to swim in warmer months. When you’re here, it’s hard to believe that inner city Stockholm is just a couple of kilometers away.
Vinterviken – another very special, beloved place for me. There are rocky cliffs (where you’ll find lots of sunbathers in warmer months), swimming areas, dense forests where families of deer and rabbits frolic unafraid. There are wild blueberries for picking, plus a ton of other foraging opportunities. And there is a spot nestled at the top of the cliffs that I feel is mine. Like a secret spot, although many people know about it now. But 12 years ago when Stockholm was quieter, and the Hägersten area was much quieter, it felt like I was the only one who knew about it. All these years later, I still come here at least once a month if possible to watch the seasons change. From deep greens and vivid blues in summer to vivid ochres in autumn, and then snowy white all winter, until spring brings that ice gray longing tinged with pale green hope.
Down on the bottom trails of Vinterviken, you’ll find a colony of garden plots, each one owned and operated by different people, together forming one beautiful orchestra of plant life. There is also a lovely outdoor cafe called Vintervikens Trädgård, which is a must if the weather is nice. If the weather isn’t nice and you want to be indoors, go to a large brick building called Winterviken. Both are super cozy stops in a very special pocket of the city.
Tyresö – One third (1/3) of Tyresö is made up of nature reserves, the largest being Tyresta Naturreservat and Tyresta national park – the largest, and perhaps my favorite, nature reserve in the entire Stockholm area. It’s just so raw and wild – primeval it’s even called on the municipality’s site – and so good. Not only is it beautiful for us humans, this area is a refuge for many rare plants and animals. A great place for foraging mushrooms, mosses and lichen. And of course there are plenty of berries in summer and autumn. This area tells many, many stories, some very ancient.
Gamla Enskede – this little pocket south of Södermalm is really lovely, though more developed than most of my other tips here. But thanks to the many garden plots, it’s also rich in wildlife. Meandering through the neighborhood, it’s not uncommon to find deer prancing from fruit tree to fruit tree. You’ll definitely see bunnies. Many people have chicken coops and the like. And the plant life is so rich, so diverse! So definitely meander through the little garden plots. Go to Matateljén for food. And for shopping, Bergenströms Rekvisita is drool-worthy. It’s owned and run by a kind woman named Fanny and her daughter, and it is stocked with some incredibly special things. Bonus: You can usually find Wyld hand & body soaps here!
Rosenhill – Ahh Ronsehill. A similar concept to Rosendals (above), but with very different character, and situated on the island of Ekerö. Rosenhill is an apple musteri, which I have no idea how to translate into English, it’s basically a place for everyone to bring their apples to be pressed into liters of apple cider. But this is only a fraction of what Rosenhill offers. It’s also an expansive biodynamic garden with orchards and animals. By day, it’s the coolest, quirkiest cafe and restaurant with farm shop. And by night, it’s a treehouse hotel and music venue.
While you’re there, take the opportunity to bike around the beautiful island of Ekerö. There are many forests, hiking paths, bathing spots, nature parks and even old castles to explore. There is even a 18 kilometer trail called Fornstigen that connects some of the ancient monuments and memorials on the little island of Lovön in Ekerö.
Brunnsviken – this bay area is very close to innercity Stockholm (on the Kungsholmen / Vasastan side) and is a wonderful place to enjoy some nature. If you walk all the way around it, following the water, there are rocky cliffs, dense forests, a big botanical garden, some cafes, a very big park called Hagaparken, swimming and sunbathing spots, and much more! If you get hungry or thirsty, stop at Gamla Orangeriet for fika or lunch. I love their coffee and buns, but also their stone sinks – Mmm. How I’d love to see a Wyld soap bottle on the edge of their sinks!
Grimsta Naturreservat – I’m including this one on the list since it’s where a lot of my recent videos are being taken, because I’m there a lot. It’s the closest wild nature to where we currently live, and I’ve been on maternity leave with my youngest pup for the last 15 months, which means many walks in this forest, many swims on this beach, many plants and berries foraged from these parts! And by now you probably understand that I have a deep love for garden cafes, and there’s a wonderful one in Grimsta called Kanaans Trädgårdscafe. If you’re ever here, do not miss Kanaan! In the winter, cozy up in their old historical home with a coffee and something sweet. In summer, sit outside with a scoop of homemade ice cream and watch the boats pass by.
There are nature reserves and garden cafes all around the city, actually. So if you’re in the outskirts of Stockholm, do a little research. Or ask me here and I’ll do my best to help.
THE ARCHIPELAGO
The archipelago of Stockholm deserves its own section and is difficult to write about because pretty much the entire archipelago is nature! You can go far – taking a boat to some of the more remote islands in the archipelago – yet you can find plenty of adventure, relaxation, and all sorts of wildlife quite close to Stockholm.
The archipelago begins just a few minutes from the city and includes some 30,000 islands and islets. Each one has its own character. In a nutshell, there are large sandy beaches, untouched forests, trails and a lot of open sea. There are craftspeople of all sorts working in their little studios. There are families who live there full-time yet also plenty of little cottages who never see a soul except in the short summer months.
Stockholms archipelago is definitely something to be experienced in person, and it just takes time to get to know it. I’ve been spent a considerable amount of time out there and have learned some things about the natural life there, but I’ve still only barely scratched the surface.
As I said before, it’s hard to pinpoint specific places when the archipelago fundamentally invites you to just come and be, but here is an attempt to put some places on the map for you..
Björno Naturreservat – a very accessible nature reserve on the island of Ingarö. Even daytrips are worth it! You can get here by car or bus, or by boat. Check out their instagram to see why this place is so nice. Classic skärgård nature!
In the summer, you’ll find one of our favorite beaches near Björno too. Well, actually, it’s 2 beaches – Stora Sand (Big Sand) and Lilla Sand (Little Sand) with a parking area in the middle, making it easy to enjoy both in one day.
Gålö – this very popular island in Stockholms archipelago still has its charms. This is an experience for those of you who want some culture mixed in with nature. Beyond the stunning beaches, cliffs and forests on Gålö, there are little farm shops and hostels, camping sites, mini golf and more. My favorite thing to do is hike to the highest point of Gålö (hike is a bad word since it’s by no means a mountain, but it does require walking up some steep cliffs, unless you take the proper trails, which I can’t speak about because I’ve never taken them!) There is also a lot of history here, with farms dating back to the Middle Ages.
Artipelag – back to Värmdö now, Artipelag is a large museum with a super nice restaurant and cafe located near Gustavsberg just a 30 minute drive from Björno Naturreservat (above). Admittedly I have never been to any of the art exhibitions, but we have come here many times to be immersed in the natural world. It’s really beautiful here. Meandering through wild forests is a wood boardwalk to guide you around the premises. Or just go rouge as we usually do! It’s a great place to bring the family. No roughing it here. When the kids get hungry – or we parents get tired – the Artipelag cafe can soothe all troubles away with their food and drink.
Rindö – a nice island in Vaxholm and home to Muttley and Jack’s Coffee Roastery, as well as some cheese makers, kombucha makers and more. This island has a lot of military history – as you can imagine, the archipelago was key during the world wars.
Tärnskär lagoon – For something more remote… On a teeny island called Tärnskär, at the far end of the archipelago, there is a beach nestled in a natural bay that becomes almost like a large pool with heated water. Warm swimming water is monumental for us here! Even the bottom of the bay is sandy. A great place to bring the kids, but be prepared for a little journey. A boat (or kayak) is required to get here, which can be a bit difficult on very windy days.
Have you spent any time in Stockholm? What are your favorite places?
Also please let me know if you visit any of the places I shared about today. Always love hearing your experiences and will try to help if you have any questions.
xx
